A country’s street meats are a good testament to the quality of its cuisine, and Czech street meats have made leaps and bounds in recent years. Before, all one could hope to find at a festival or a park were gristly, greasy sausages of perhaps several variations, and although it’s possible to feel a certain wave of nostalgia (or is that nausea?) recalling those days, it’s a welcome change that food vendors have broadened their culinary horizons. Nowadays, if you’re going to a music festival such as Rock for People, you’re more likely to have several options to choose from, some of which may even feature the elusive vegetable.
For all those times you've gotten one of these and thought, 'Is this it?' Well, take heart.
Whether or not all of these succeed in being, um, truly edible is another story. But it bears good tidings that vendors are increasingly seeing people as discerning customers with actual taste buds and not just another grubby mitt reaching for a sausage link.
When Anthony Bourdain came to Prague for the local episode of his hit show, No Reservations, he reveled in Prague’s street food, wolfing down sausages and worshipping a squidgy fried-cheese sandwich. He famously called the Czech Republic “the land that vegetables forgot.” Although it may be a “when pigs fly” situation of when pigs will be off the hook here, so to speak, at least there seems to be an awareness around that hey, vegetables do exist, and they can be pretty tasty.
Several summers ago, I made my first visit to the Hospůdka Na Hradbach beer garden atop Vyšehrad. Sure, I marveled at the view, the cheap beer, the conviviality. But what had me the most impressed was the food there: In addition to the standard klobása (which, don’t get me wrong, can do post-beer wonders), they had chicken skewers, complete with hunks of onion, peppers and possibly zucchini, if my memory serves me right. They also had a side order of tasty baked potatoes smothered in a garlicky cream dressing that completely hit the spot.
Even Prague Zoo has upped the culinary ante. Its lowly sausage stands have been jazzed up with offerings of Tex-Mex food, including quesadillas, burritos and nachos. Granted, I’ve only heard dubious reports as to the quality, but still, it’s an adventurous step in the right direction.
The farmers’ markets around town have surely played their part, too. All the sausages at the Dejvice flea market on a recent Saturday were tantalizingly gourmet, straight from the sausage farm, with the proud employees informing the queue of hungry eyes about the different types, several of which were stuffed with various herbs and smelled amazing, drawing quite a crowd. I tried the small Bavarian ones, which for 70 Kč got us six little links, well-spiced and snappy as we bit into them too soon, fanning our mouths from the heat.
However, the farmers’ markets have also brought lots of other eats, too: Ostrich steak, baked potatoes overstuffed with tuna and vegetables or sour cream, vegan cupcakes and homemade cookies … the list is quite long. People were clearly happy to have more choices, both for ingredients to take home and for a snack while wandering around the market. There seems to be an increased pride in local goods, be them sweet or savory, meaning you don’t have to wait until the Christmas markets, let alone pay tourist prices, for some Czech specialty sweets.
So, if you’re planning to go to one of the many festivals — be it a music fest or an open-house day at a regional brewery — you may be nicely surprised by what’s on the menu.
Here are some photos from the food on offer at the recent record-beating festival in Pelhřimov, south Moravia:
Yes, it's still pork, but at least it's in a different form. A welcomingly wafting, smoky sort of form.
On the left, a "Farmer's Mix" of chicken, peppers, onions and sauce; on the right, a vat of Slovak halušky.
Hey, we still want our meat, it's just nice to have some options.
Wedges of fresh and locally made koláčky with fruit and poppy-seed fillings.
Pigs are so important to Czech cuisine, that they are even honored in candy form.
Čau Down