There are certainly specific smells that permeate the city come summer, and most of them are not nice. Granted, we’ve had a bit of a cool patch recently, but there’s still hope yet for a return to seasonal temperatures, and hopefully nothing too far above that. It may be easy to grumble about these dark, drizzly days, but let’s at least be grateful for having thus far avoided one of Prague’s more unfortunate olfactory phenomena.
Anyone who’s been on an even slightly crowded bus or tram in temperatures above 25° C will know what I’m talking about. When it’s the depths of winter, however, my dreams of summer seem to always conveniently leave out the wafts of B.O. and buzzing mosquitoes that the warmer months inevitably bring, and all I can think of is lazy, light evenings and sitting under a chestnut tree, cold beer in hand. It’s worth the winter hype, of course: While you may not be really allowed to spray your fellow passengers’ offending pits, at least you can douse yourself in bug spray against the smallest offenders.
Photo courtesy of Jiří Sedláček.
Once you’ve left said transportation and have stepped out, gasping, into the muggy air, you might catch a whiff of a restaurant’s outdoor grill, as many places around the city stock up on charcoal and both equipment and menus of varying sizes in order to entice people off the street. And what better food for summer than cheap, grilled steaks, vegetable skewers or some grilled hermelín cheese?
Here is a sampling of restaurants around town that have their supersize grills revved up for summer. There are many, many more out there for the finding, though: including many local hospodas, where you can get a casual meal or snack. So if this cold spell ever breaks and we can all go back to sitting outside, make like a cartoon character and follow the wafts.
Lví dvůr
U Prašného mostu 6, Prague 1. Tel. 224 372 361. www.lvidvur.cz
It’s all for the pig at this rustic-style restaurant, a stone’s throw from Prague Castle. Grill specialties include beef steaks, rib-eye steaks, pork tenderloin, vegetable skewers and even pineapple. A beautiful terrace overlooks the Royal Gardens and the up-close dramatic outline of the castle and St. Vitus.
La Rotonde
Štěpánská 40, Prague 1. Tel. 222 820 000. www.alcron.cz
Chef Roman Paulus takes on board the concept of Sunday Funday, and offers at his La Rotonde restaurant just off Wenceslas Square an all-you-eat menu of grilled meats and seafood, as well as side salads and veggies. The price of 899 Kč includes an unlimited amount of beer, wine and soft drinks, which makes for a great deal.
Magická Zahrada
Nuselská 159/114, Prague 4. Tel. 261 214 252. www.magickazahrada.cz
The Magical Garden gets even more magical for a summer’s evening with a special menu off the grill, available Monday through Friday. The menu includes Uruguayan beef, ostrich steaks, salmon skewers and (just in time for Swiss National Day, Aug. 1) grilled Raclette cheese and baked potatoes.
Cowboys
Nerudova 40, Prague 1. Tel. 296 826 107. www.kampagroup.cz
Granted, this sort of fare is old hat to Cowboys, part of the Kampa Group, as its theme is grilled meat in all shapes and sizes. But their summer terrace is one of the nicest in Malá Strana, making it all the more timely to visit for one of their succulent steaks or a burger.
La Galerie
Na Slupi 2b, Prague 2. Tel. 236 071 028. www.lagalerie.cz
This Nusle restaurant, which specializes in veal raised on its own farm in Switzerland, has an outdoor open grill on their relaxing patio to add further levels of flavor to their already great steaks.
Žofín Garden
Slovanský ostrov, Prague 1. Tel. 277 000 777. www.zofingarden.cz
A summer-long grill menu next to a beautiful late-Baroque chateau, on an island of the Vltava? Yes, it’s Žofín. The skilled chefs whip up burgers, steaks, skewers and sausages at the open grill in front of guests — although they are most likely too busy admiring the view.
Cloud 9 Sky Bar
In the Hilton Prague, Pobřežní 1. Prague 8. Tel. 224 842 999. www.cloud9.cz
One of the best deals of the summer is atop the Prague Hilton, at its swanky sky bar, which has breathtaking views over the city. Every Friday and Saturday, for 490 Kč, you can eat all that you can of grilled burgers, lamb chops and steaks. The price includes one of the cocktail bar’s signature cocktails.
Il Giardino
In the Hotel Mövenpick, Mozartova 1, Prague 5. Tel. 257 151 111
Daily between 6 p.m. and 11 p.m., the garden at this restaurant hosts an open grill, featuring specialties such as tuna, salmon, swordfish, squid, tiger prawns, lamb, veal or classic filet mignon steaks.
I love the idea of a pizza party. How, as a kid, it’s the most exciting thing, and it always just means that there are going to be lots of people and lots of pizza, and that’s all it takes to make a party out of it. But still, it is super exciting.
