With all of Prague’s incredible neo-Gothic architecture to look up at and beer signs to march toward, it’s easy to miss something that’s everywhere: Czech delicatessens. They may be different from their Western (especially American) counterparts in that they serve ready-made vs. per-request items, but lahůdky are great places to refuel without having to sit down in a restaurant and shell out more than you’d like to on a lunch.

Apetit's deli in Lucerna

One in particular that has become a recent favorite of mine is the Apetit lahůdky a cukrárna in the Lucerna Passage, right off Wenceslas Square (the deli is located on the central aisle of the passage, running from the main atrium, between Štěpánská and Vodičkova streets, down to V Jámě street). It opened about a year ago and is part of the Apetit chain, which has a self-service-style restaurant across the hallway. But the deli has the best deals for a light bite or a sweet tooth, perfect for grabbing to go and eating in the nearby hidden gardens just behind Müstek: the rose-laden and bench-filled Františkánská zahrada. You can also round out the meal (and your figure) with an ice-cream from the heaveny Ovocný Světozor just around the corner, too.

Františkánská zahrada (the roses should be out soon)

The offerings of lahůdky may seem intimidating at first, with rows of spilling-over open-faced sandwiches (chlebičky) and tubs of various creamy salads, but in addition to be a crown-saver it’s also a taste of Czech cuisine just as important as roast duck or goulash. Chlebičky, which are a good-sized slice of white baguette topped with various combinations — such as ham and cheese and boiled egg, carrot salad, crab salad or cheese and pickle — are only about 12 Kc a piece. It’s not surprising then that the Apetit lahůdky can at times build up a long queue of people waiting to get a fill up on a few.

It also stocks a variety of sandwiches, which work out to an incredible bargain, as well. Check out this gargantuan curried-chicken ciabatta, below, for the sweet price of just 45 Kc:

The huge curried-chicken ciabatta.

This particular one came with slices of roast chicken, tomato, cheese, gherkins, lettuce and a light curried-mayo dressing that adds a light tang, tarting it up and elevating it to something interesting. There are also smaller versions, served in cereal rolls (cerealní rohlíky) for 25 Kč — perfect for elevensies, as I’ve found.

Crammed into the glass counter are also tuna sandwiches, caprese sandwiches, standard ham and cheese, hermelín sandwiches, vying for space with veritable meals: pork and chicken shnitzels (of the latter, I had one that was crusted in a potato-and-broccoli batter. It was great, and cost about, oh, 40 Kč), as well as potato pancakes and various other breaded and potato-oriented items that can either be heated up and enjoyed on the premises or packaged up to go at no extra charge.

Another whole counter at the Apetit lahůdky a cukrárna is dedicated to salads, some of which rotate on a daily basis. One whole row is taken up with various pickled fishes, and another with several incarnations of potato salad and humr, an often crab- or lobster-flavored creamy mixture that goes well with white rolls. There are also vegetable salads, such as one with broccoli, leek, corn and carrot, as well as various pasta salads, including a tuna one (which sadly is only available on certain days, if you’re lucky), one with cream and blue cheese, one with ham and peas, and one with spinach, cream and carrot, pictured below:

Pasta Rigate

The salads are priced at around 15 or 16 Kč per 100 grams, so for a normal, restaurant-sized portion (usually 300 grams), you can get away with paying less than 50 Kč. It’s also good to mix-and-match several different kinds. I scored a chicken řízek with potato salad recently for a whopping fiftysomething crowns.

Lahudky also usually feature counters stocked full of Czech cakes and sweets, and it’s worth ordering a few (just point to what you want) to see what all the fuss is about. I’ll just let this picture do the talking of what delights await:

Calories = yum.

Most mornings when I pass by there are several pairs of customers seated outside, with steaming mugs of coffee and plates piled high with three or four cakes each. I’m working up the courage myself to throw spring diet hopes to the wind and do the same …