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• Saturday, March 26th, 2011

OK, so it mostly is. But vegetarians do have more options in Prague these days than say, back in the ’90s, when a greasy plate of fried cheese (usually cooked in the same oil as everything else and served with a removable slice of ham) was about the only option.

Czech may be at heart a carnivore cuisine, but the majority of restaurants (as opposed to a local hospoda) now have respectable vegetarian options, such as salads and pastas and various vegetable bakes. There are also a number of dedicated veggie places that have sprouted up in recent years, and their popularity is testament to changing local palates and health-conscious demand.

Vegetables: Not so uncommon a sight these days.

In this week’s Prague Post, I review Mlsná kavka, a vegetarian restaurant that opened up last fall in the district of Karlín, not far from the city center and home to an increasing number of international businesses. There were several noteworthy dishes at “The Picky Jackdaw,” as the name translates, namely the tofu nasi goreng and a starter of goat-cheese and peppercorn-stuffed mushrooms.

The good news is that most green-conscious restaurants in Prague are also quite cost-conscious, too, meaning it’s now quite possible in most areas of the city to get a healthy — and tasty — meal that will leave you with a clean plate and a clean mind.

Here are a few of the standout vegetarian restaurants that Prague has to offer:

Samosas at Beas (photo: Walter Novak)

Beas dhaba

With several locations, this fast-food canteen serves up a daily selection of cheap, if not amazing, curries and salads. Pile up your tray with homemade naan, chapatti, palaak paneer — there are usually three dishes on offer each day, and one pasta dish (which on a recent visit was spinach lasagna). Free tap water in jugs on each table and self-service means a quick, budget meal. The location near Národní třida has a nice courtyard patio for warmer days. Vladislavova 24, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 773 380 377. Check out Beas’ website for all four locations and opening hours.

Balarama

Enter the mystical cafeteria that is Balarama, where the meals are incredibly cheap and filling for both body and soul. Combined with a bookstore and spiritual center, Balarama has daily offers starting at 70 Kč of Indian dishes, as well as coffees, teas and sweets. Orlická 9, Prague 3–Žižkov. Tel. 222 947 365. Open daily 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Cafeterapie

There are some meat dishes on the menu at this cute, riverside café, but the focus is on Mediterranean and Middle Eastern vegetarian dishes like hummus and tabouleh. Wraps and decent sandwiches, too — the tomato, pesto and mozzarella baguette in particular stands out, and most dishes come with a freshly dressed side salad. A few nice wines and desserts, as well. A good stop right by the Výton tram stop. Na hrobci 3, Prague 2–New Town. Tel. 224 916 098. Open Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–10 p.m.

Country Life

A longtime favorite in Prague, both for its quick, cafeteria-style meals and for its extensive grocery department, selling bio and organic foods and household products. Country Life gets very busy at lunchtimes, as people pour in for the salad bar, soups and main dishes, which vary daily over a range of cuisines. One location is close to the Astronomical Clock in Old Town; there is another, smaller one in New Town and one in Dejvice. Check the website for addresses and opening hours.

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Nourishment at Gopal

Gopál

Hidden along the touristed Nerudova street that winds up to Prague Castle, Gopál has a cozy courtyard garden and special menus, such as discounts for students and an eight-course club menu for 100 Kč. Many evenings feature live music, and there are yoga classes and spiritual seminars onsite. Oh, and the food is good: Fresh salads and sauces complement rich veggie curries and rice. Nerudova 32, Prague 1–Malá Strana. Tel. 604 434 931. Open daily 11 a.m.–9 p.m.

Govinda

One of Prague’s first vegetarian restaurants, Govinda has two locations, one in Prague 1 and one in Prague 8–Palmovka. Run by Hare Krishnas, both locales offer cheap and quick Indian specialties, usually one option a day, along with free tap water and a pretty-themed interior. At the Soukenická one in the city center, there is also an organic bakery, Nikai, which sells products using flour from the Hare Krishna Krišnův dvůr. Check the website for addresses and opening times.

The atmopshere at "Clear Head."

Lehká hlava

“Clear Head,” along with its sister restaurant, Maitrea, listed below, are contenders for best vegetarian restaurant in Prague. Much creativity and thought have gone into both the menus and the interior, which features a room lit by star-lights in the ceiling and fantastical décor. Free tap water and exceptional meals that cover a variety of international cuisines. Borsov 2, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 222 220 665. Open Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–11:30 p.m.

Loving Hut

A vegan worldwide chain of restaurants stemming from the beliefs of Supreme Master Ching Hai, with two outlets in Prague, on Londýnská and Truhlářská. Another one recently opened in the Nový Smíchov shopping center (for a spiritual snack after some retail therapy). Some above-standard curries and sushi, albeit commensurate with the prices (most items are priced under 100 Kč). Check the website for addresses and opening hours.

Colors and flavors abound at Maitrea (photo: Philip Heijmans)

Maitrea

Like its sister, Lehká hlava, mentioned above, Maitrea shows the power of the veg. This place quickly became a popular favorite for locals for its artistic endeavors both in and out of the kitchen. The cozy atmosphere is the perfect place to enjoy the likes of veggie burgers, quesadillas, hummus and more. Týnská ulička 6, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 221 711 631. Open Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–11:30 p.m.

Radost FX

Radost is perhaps equally known for its thumping club downstairs as it is for its vegetarian restaurant upstairs, an elaborately bejeweled set of rooms with a sizeable menu, which can be hit or miss — when it’s good though, it’s very, very good. Weekend brunches are nearly always packed, as people nurse Bloody Marys and omelets to cure the past night’s excesses. Bělehradská 234/120, Prague 2–Vinohrady. Tel. 224 254 776. Open Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

Čau Down

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